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New Tree Planting
- Think of
the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How
well your tree and investment grows depends on the type
of tree and location you select for planting, the care
you provide when the tree is planted, and follow-up care
the tree receives after planting.
- The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the
dormant season -- in the fall after leaf drop or early
spring before bud-break. Weather conditions are cool and
allow plants to establish roots in the new location
before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top
growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery
or garden center, and given the appropriate care during
transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout
the growing season. In either situation, proper handling
during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future
for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting
your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities
located prior to digging.
If the tree you are
planting is balled and burlapped, or bare rooted, it is
important to understand that the tree's root system has
been reduced by 90-95% of its original size during
transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the
digging process, trees will commonly exhibit what is
known as transplant shock (TS). TS is indicated by
slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting.
Proper site preparation before and during planting,
coupled with good follow-up care will reduce the amount
of time the plant experiences TS and will allow the tree
to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully
follow eight simple steps and you can significantly
reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of
planting.
"It's better to put a $100 tree
in a $200 hole than to put a $200 tree in a $100
hole."
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make
the hole wide, as much as three times the
diameter of the root ball, but only as deep as
the root ball. It is important to make the hole
wide because the tree roots on the newly
establishing tree must push through surrounding
soil to establish. On most planting sites in new
developments, the existing soils have been
compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root
growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area
around the tree provides the newly emerging roots
room to expand into loose soil to hasten
establishment.
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare
is where the roots spread at the base of the
tree. This point should be partially visible
after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If
the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may
have to remove some soil from the top of the root
ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the
hole needs to be for proper planting.
- Place the tree at the proper height.
Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see
that the hole has been dug to the proper depth,
and no more. The majority of the roots on the
newly planted tree will develop in the top
12" of soil. If the tree is planted too
deep, new roots will have difficulty developing
due to a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant
the tree a little high, 1-2" above the base
of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below
the original growing level. This will allow for
some settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when
setting the tree in the hole, always lift the
tree by the root ball, and never by the trunk.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin
back filling have someone view the tree from several
directions to confirm the tree is straight. Once you
begin back filling it is difficult to reposition.
- Fill the hole, gently but firmly. Fill the hole
about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil around
the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled
and burlapped, cut and remove the string and wire from
around the trunk and top 1/3 of the root ball (see
diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in
the process.
Fill the remainder of the hole, taking
care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that
may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add
the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water.
Continue this process until the hole is filled and the
tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to apply
fertilizer at the time of planting.
- Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown
and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support is
not necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies
have shown that trees will establish more quickly and
develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not
staked at the time of planting. However, protective
staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage,
vandalism or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is
necessary for support, two stakes used in conjunction
with a wide flexible tie material will hold the tree
upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the
trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties
after the first year of growth. Leave protective staking
in place as long as necessary.
- Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply
organic matter applied to the area at the base of the
tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, protect
against harsh soil temperatures, both hot and cold, and
reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good
choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat
moss, or wood chips. A two to four inch layer is ideal.
More that four inches may cause a problem with gas
exchange. When placing mulch, care should be taken so
that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. This
may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the
tree. A mulch-free area, one to two inches wide at the
base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark
conditions and prevent decay.
- Follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not
soaked; over watering will cause leaves to turn yellow or
fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain,
and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is
dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water.
Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower
temperatures that require less frequent watering.
Other
follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches
damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly
immediately after planting, and wait to begin necessary
corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in
the new location.
After you've completed these eight simple steps,
further routine care and favorable weather conditions
will ensure that your new tree or shrub will grow and
thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide
a long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people
of all ages. When questions arise about the care of your
tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified
Arborist, tree care or garden center professional for
assistance.
- Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated
undertaking.. Our program is designed to maintain plant
vigor and should initially include inspections to detect
and treat any existing problems which could be damaging
or fatal. Thereafter, regular inspections and preventive
maintenance will ensure plant health and beauty.
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